What is BHA? The Acne-Fighting Acid Explained
- Arya Kapoor
- Nov 4
- 7 min read
Introduction: The Quiet Genius of Skincare
If AHA is that loud friend who walks in yelling “I make your skin glow!”, then BHA is the quiet genius in the corner who just fixes your acne, unclogs your pores, and minds its own business.
Now just because it's got the term ACID in it's name, doesn't mean it's scary! Not all acids are the bad guys, some are friendly too, just like this one.
Some call it the breakout whisperer, others have ruined their skin by over-exfoliating in its name. So let’s clear things up — literally and scientifically.
What Are BHAs?
BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are oil-soluble exfoliating acids. Keyword babe - OIL SOLUBLE - that's the superpower. It lets them travel deep into your pores, dissolve the gunk (sebum, sweat, dead cells, your past skincare mistakes), and clean from within.
So yeah, if AHAs exfoliate the surface, BHAs go undercover, diving into clogged pores and reducing inflammation at the source.
That’s why they’re beloved by people with:
Oily or acne-prone skin
Blackheads / whiteheads
Textured skin that feels bumpy even after cleansing
You’ll find BHAs in cleansers, toners, pads, and serums — and if you check the label, chances are it says Salicylic Acid.
How BHAs Work on Skin
BHAs are like little oil-eating ninjas that dissolve sebum inside pores, breaking the cycle of congestion before it becomes acne.
On a biological level, they:
Break down keratin plugs clogging pores
Calm inflammation (salicylic acid is anti-inflammatory by nature)
Have mild antibacterial properties
Reduce redness and swelling in active breakouts
So if your skin constantly feels greasy, congested, or one wrong product away from chaos, this is your acid.
Types of BHAs (Because Yes, There’s More Than One)
Even though Salicylic Acid gets all the fame (reminds me someone called it sislic-acid)💀, there are actually a few members in the BHA family.
1. Salicylic Acid – The Gold Standard
The Beyoncé of BHAs. Derived from willow bark, this acid:
Penetrates deep into oily pores
Dissolves trapped sebum and dead cells
Soothes redness and inflammation
Comes in OTC strengths of 0.5–2%
If you’ve ever used an “acne-clearing” toner or pad, this was the ingredient doing the work while the marketing screamed “miracle!”
But because we respect her too much to cram her story here, we’ll given her a full article: [Salicylic Acid Decoded: Don’t Use It Just Because Your Friend Said So]
Oh and even though SA is naturally occuring, these days it is just made in labs. With the amount of acnes we as a society are collectively experiencing these days, some credit goes to the bad eating habits which DOES alter the way our body produces certain hormones and the way it shows up on our skin + the pollution that we humans have caused on this planet...I mean it's coming back to us guys...in the form of fancy term "break-outs". |
2. Betaine Salicylate – The Gentle Twin
Think of this as Salicylic Acid’s chill cousin from Korean skincare.It’s a combo of salicylic acid + betaine (a hydrating humectant), which makes it:
Softer on sensitive skin
Less likely to cause dryness or peeling
Common in formulations by COSRX, Some By Mi, and iUNIK
It works slower but delivers steady results — ideal if your skin barrier cries easily.
3. Tropic Acid – The Understudied Cousin
Derived from certain fruits, Tropic Acid is a lesser-known BHA sometimes used alongside AHAs in blended exfoliants.It offers:
Mild exfoliation
Added antioxidant properties
Minimal irritation
It’s still niche, with limited dermatological data, more of a “supporting role” than a star ingredient. You won't find is commonly in formulations.
Benefits and Side effects of using BHA on skin
Just like we discussed in the article on AHA, everything has got pros and cons, and anything in moderation is fine while excess tends to harm; similarly BHA has the same story. Some people absolutely swear by it, and others, well either their skin seems to HATE it or they just use it wrong.
Benefits of BHAs
So, what do these oily-soluble overachievers actually do?
Unclog Pores Like a Pro Break down the buildup that leads to blackheads, whiteheads, and acne.
Reduce Oil Production Regular use helps regulate sebum levels, keeping that mid-day shine under control. A 2% SA cleanser works great for combination to oily skin, while people with excessive oil production who call their face as oil-mill, tend to benefit greatly from a 5-10% SA serum.
Calm Active Breakouts Anti-inflammatory + antibacterial = a soothing rescue mission for angry zits.
Smooth Texture and Refine Pores No, it won’t “shrink” your pores (that’s a myth), but it’ll make them look tighter and cleaner. You can't just...SHRINK the size of your pores, it's your skin, not some grape! But can you reduce their appearance? YES. A BIG YES. YES IN CAPS.
--- By having a good skincare routine OF COURSE (a combination of Niacinamide with Trenexamic acid tends to work the BEST in this scenario), --- Eating clean food that focuses on gut health (because what's in the gut is what gets reflected on your skin), --- Having a proper intake of collagen rich protein to help build and maintain the elasticity of your skin, --- And last but definitely not the least, exercising to make sure there's good blood flow in every part of your body + to maintain overall health, will not only give you good glowing skin but also help manage the appearance of your pores. Crux of the story - Maintain a good overall lifestyle to make sure you are doing at least the essentials in your capacity to have healthy skin. |
Enhance Product Absorption Clean pores = skincare that actually penetrates instead of sitting on top.
Risks & Side Effects of BHAs
Now, don’t go drenching your face in it — because more exfoliation ≠ more results.
It reminds me of how people use tretinoin (one of the most highly potent anti-ageing ingredient in the skincare world) more than recommended amount, which is a PEA SIZE and then complain about PURGING. Using more is not going to give you faster results. Similarly when people overdo BHAs or don't use them the proper way, the common side effects include:
Dryness & flakiness (especially at first)
Mild irritation if overused or mixed with other actives
Purging — temporary breakout phase as clogged pores clear
Safety Tips
Start with 0.5–1% concentration.
Limit to 2–3 times a week initially.
Always apply on dry skin (BHAs absorb better without water).
Follow with moisturizer.
Never skip sunscreen — exfoliated skin burns faster.
If your skin starts to sting or peel aggressively, it’s not “detoxing”; it’s protesting.
How to Use BHAs Correctly
Patch Test — jawline or behind the ear.
Apply after cleansing, before moisturizer, which is majorly in the form of an essence or serum, unless the only time you are using a BHA is in the form of cleanser itself.
Use at night; pair with hydrating serums (hyaluronic acid, niacinamide). Any kind of exfoliant is better used at night as your skin gets time away from sun (which can cause damage post-exfoliation) + since it's night, you can use heavier moisturisers allowing your skin barrier to heal and repair while you go to bed looking like cute glazed potato!
Don’t combine with strong AHA peels or retinoids on the same day. Once a week if the concentration is stronger or 2-3 times a week if conc. is lighter yet effective, in that case you CAN combine AHA with BHA and it's fine. For ex- Using a BHA cleanser (which has 0.5-2% conc.) and applying an AHA toner (with again 2-7% conc.) is totally safe in limited frequency, unless your skin is super-sensitive; in which case you should - 1. OFC consult your dermat 2. stick to gentler options such as natural alternatives or lower conc. of actives.
These days you also have access to AHA-BHA-PHA peels which have roughly 25-35% combined conc. (i.e., 15-20% AHA, 2-5% BHA, 2-5% PHA). These are absolutely safe for skin (they are literally made by chemists who study and practice skin-science for a living). While some brands suggest using it once a week, experts and ACTUAL PRODUCT USERS like you and I, recommend using it once in 15-30 days, slowly introducing it to your skin and letting your skin understand who's this new guest! Always remember, skincare is not about using all the products availble in the market. Your skin is not some experiment ground where you test nukes. Skincare is about being gentle and choosing the right set of ingredients that work for YOUR skin. |
Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. While many people think drying your acne up is the way to go.... oily skin doesn't need moisturiser at all bla bla bla; that's not how it works. You are supposed to age into a human only, not a raisin. By not moisturising enough or stripping away natural oils of your skin, you are giving your skin a signal that - Hey, seems like there's no moisturiser coming, we must create our own and that in turn gives you an extra oily skin. Human body is way smarter beyond our capability to think and it will do everything possible to preserve itself for the longest; but sometimes, it just needs some help. Even with your acne, drying them up may help get rid of that particular breakout, but it can also very much lead to pigmentation. Which is why, you must deal with it using a gentler approach. Use salicylic acid or hydrocolloid patches or even alovera-neem paste if you prefer something more natural, just whatever works for your skin, but don't skip the moisturiser. I have a pretty sensitive combination skin type which tends to be really oily in summers while dries up quite fast in winters and I have found tea tree oil based gel moisturisers to be quite effective during my breakout eras. And it does NOT leave your skin with that OILY....GREASY feeling.
💡 Tip: For oily T-zones, apply BHA only to congested areas instead of the whole face.
Conclusion: The Takeaway on BHAs
BHAs aren’t flashy. They won’t give you instant glass-skin in one swipe, but they will quietly declutter your pores and make your skin behave long-term.
Use them right, hydrate well, and they’ll turn your skin from “I can feel my pores breathing” to “wait, where did my acne go?”
If AHAs polish the surface, BHAs fix the plumbing, and PHAs are the peacekeepers. See full breakdown in our [AHA vs BHA vs PHA Guide].
FAQs
Q: Can I use BHA every day?
If it’s a low concentration (≤1%), yes. Otherwise, 2–3 times per week is plenty.
Q: Is BHA good for sensitive skin?
Try Betaine Salicylate — it’s a gentler alternative.
Q: Can I mix AHA and BHA?
You can, but prefer not daily. Alternate nights or use them in separate routines.
Q: Is Salicylic Acid the only BHA?
It’s the main one, but Betaine Salicylate and Tropic Acid also count.
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